Sump Pump vs. Sewage Ejector Pump: What’s the Difference?

When it comes to keeping your basement dry and your plumbing flowing smoothly, two systems often come into play: sump pumps and sewage ejector pumps. While they may sound similar, they serve very different purposes. Here's a breakdown to help you understand the difference and why it matters.

What Is a Sump Pump?

A sump pump is designed to remove groundwater that collects in a sump pit, usually located in the lowest part of a basement or crawlspace. This pump activates automatically when water levels rise and sends the water away from the home, often through a discharge pipe that leads outside.

Purpose:

Prevent basement flooding

Protect foundation from water damage

Manage high water tables or heavy rains

Common in Homes With:

Basements below the water table

Poor exterior drainage

History of water intrusion

What Is a Sewage Ejector Pump?

A sewage ejector pump is used to pump out wastewater from bathrooms, laundry rooms, or other plumbing fixtures located below the main sewer or septic line. Since gravity alone can’t move waste upward, an ejector pump is installed to push it up into the main sewer system.

Purpose:

Move solid and liquid waste from basement bathrooms or laundry

Prevent sewage backups

Comply with plumbing code in finished basements

Includes a Sealed Pit: Unlike a sump pit, a sewage ejector basin must be sealed to contain odors and gases, and is connected to a vent stack.

If you’re finishing your basement or purchasing a home with plumbing below grade, make sure your system is correctly installed and maintained.

Top 10 Inspection Topics Every Colorado Agent Should Understand

We are always impressed when an agent is able to intelligently communicate inspection findings and knowledge to their client during the inspection process. Having a working knowledge of common inspection issues can help you set expectations, avoid surprises, and win major credibility with clients.

Here are the top 10 home inspection topics every residential agent in Colorado should be familiar with:

🏠 Top 10 Inspection Topics in Colorado

1. Aluminum Wiring
   Common in homes built mid-60s to mid-70s. Is a fire hazard if not properly repaired and is flagged for detailed evaluation and repair.

2. Federal Pacific & Zinsco Panels
   These outdated electrical panels are known to fail under load and are always called out for replacement.

3. High Radon Levels
   Radon is common in Colorado due to our geology. Anything ≥ 4.0 pCi/L is recommended for mitigation.

4. Polybutylene & Galvanized Pipes
   These older plumbing materials are prone to failure and often lead to insurance or resale concerns.

5. Aging HVAC Systems
   Furnaces over 25 years and A/Cs over 15 years are at or near end-of-life. 

6. Asbestos-Containing Materials
   Common in older homes (especially popcorn ceilings, duct wrap and flooring). Asbestos can’t be confirmed visually and testing is required for confirmation.

7. Roof Age & Condition
   Understanding roof hail damage and claims is key in our climate. Knowing what to do with an inspector's findings is key.  Insurance companies often require documentation or inspection.

8. Grading & Drainage Issues
   Poor grading can lead to foundation moisture issues, especially with Benonite clay soils in Colorado.

9. Sewer Line Concerns
   Root intrusion, bellies, and breaks are common. Sewer scopes are highly recommended—even on newer homes.

10. Structural Movement
    Colorado’s expansive Bentonite clay soils can cause foundation shifting or settlement cracks. Minor cracks = common. Major displacement = concern.

How to Know if You Can Add Air Conditioning to a Heat-Only Home

This is one of the most common questions we get from buyers touring homes without air conditioning: Can I add A/C?

The short answer is yes—you can add A/C to almost any home. The longer answer? It depends on the home’s existing heating system, the budget, and how much work you're prepared to take on. Here’s a quick breakdown of what to consider when evaluating this with your clients.

Key Factors to Consider:

1. Forced Air Furnace = Easiest Path
   If the home already has a forced air furnace, that’s great news. The ductwork is already in place, so installing a central A/C system is typically straightforward and cost-effective.
   

2. Boiler System = Bigger Lift
   Homes heated by a boiler (radiators, baseboards, etc.) do not have ductwork, so adding central A/C will require installing a separate duct system. An increasingly popular alternative? Ductless mini-split systems, which are easier to retrofit and provide room-by-room control.
   

3. Evaporative Cooler Present?
   It’s a common misconception that an existing swamp cooler limits your A/C options. In reality, evaporative coolers and A/C systems operate independently. A home can technically have both—but most homeowners opt to remove the evaporative cooler once A/C is installed.
   

BOTTOM LINE:
Almost every home can be upgraded with air conditioning, but the cost and complexity vary greatly depending on the existing heating setup. Knowing what system is in place—and what alternatives are available—can help set the right expectations for your buyers and open the door for helpful vendor referrals.

Pro tip: If installing A/C, consider heat pump options that provide both heating and cooling. Split system heat pumps are available that look and operate just like a traditional A/C, but with the added benefit of providing efficient heating to supplement a furnace. 

Foundation Moisture Prevention

We have said it before, and we will say it again and again. Moisture management is critical when it comes to your home. We have seen firsthand how proactive steps can save homeowners from major headaches down the road, and conversely how improper moisture management has caused floods, structural issues and mold. Below are some tips to know and share.

Ensure Proper Grading Around the Home

• The ground should slope away from the foundation at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet. This helps direct water away from the house.

• At the very least, just make sure that water is draining AWAY from the home.

Maintain and Extend Downspouts

• Downspouts should discharge water at least 4-6 feet away from the foundation.

• Recommend installing downspout extensions to prevent water from collecting near the foundation.

Clean and Repair Gutters

• Clogged or damaged gutters can cause water to overflow and seep into the foundation. Water spilling over from clogged gutters led to a lot of basement flooding last year during the heavy rainfalls that hit the Denver-Metro area.

• Regularly clean gutters, especially in the fall.

• Suggest ensuring all gutter joints are sealed and securely attached.

Install a French Drain or Drainage System

• If the property has a history of water pooling near the foundation, recommend consulting a professional to install a French drain or other drainage solutions.

Check for Cracks in the Foundation

• Small cracks can allow water to seep in. Inspect the foundation regularly and use an appropriate sealant to fill any minor cracks.

• For larger cracks, suggest consulting a structural engineer or foundation specialist.

Maintain Proper Landscaping

• Trees and shrubs should be planted at least 5-10 feet from the foundation to prevent root intrusion and soil moisture issues.

• Opt for native plants that require less water, reducing the risk of over-saturating the soil.

Install a Sump Pump

• In areas prone to heavy rainfall or high water tables, a sump pump can help remove excess water from around the foundation.

• Recommend testing the sump pump regularly to ensure it's operational.

Waterproof the Basement or Crawl Space

• Suggest using waterproof paint or sealants on basement walls to reduce moisture intrusion.

• Install a vapor barrier in crawl spaces and ensure that it’s properly sealed.

Monitor Drainage After Heavy Rain

• Walk around the property after a rainstorm to check how water is draining and identify any problem areas early.

Home Inspection Terminology: A Guide for Real Estate Agents!

At Alpine Building Performance, we’re excited to introduce our educational series (Part 1 and 2) designed to help real estate agents navigate the often complex terminology used in home inspections and residential construction. Whether you’re new to the industry or looking to deepen your expertise, this guide is here to clarify the essentials - and a few lesser-known terms. Let’s dive in!

Roofing Terminology

Starting at the top, here are some fundamental roofing terms to know:

• Roof Deck/Roof Sheathing: The structural base of the roof, typically made from plywood or oriented strand board (OSB), where roofing materials are applied.

• Underlayment: A moisture-resistant layer placed between the roof deck and shingles, made of felt or synthetic material.

• Flashing: Metal or other materials used to direct water away from roof joints, such as chimneys and vents, preventing leaks.

• Eaves: The overhanging edges of the roof that extend beyond the exterior walls.

• Ridge: The peak of the roof where two slopes meet.

• Soffit: The underside of the roof overhang, often ventilated to support attic airflow.

• Fascia: The vertical board along the roofline, where gutters are typically mounted.

Exterior Terminology

The exterior of a home is a major focus in inspections. Here are key terms every agent should know:

• EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish System): A multi-layered exterior cladding system offering insulation, waterproofing, and a decorative finish. Proper installation is crucial to avoid moisture issues.

• Capillary Break: An air gap between materials to prevent moisture wicking into building components, such as between siding and the ground.

• Brick/Stone Veneer: A facade that serves as siding rather than a structural wall. Unlike solid brick walls, veneers are primarily decorative.

• Pressboard Siding: Engineered wood siding made from compressed wood fibers, resin, and wax. While affordable, it’s prone to moisture damage without proper maintenance.

• Fiber Cement: A durable, moisture-resistant siding made from cement, sand, and cellulose fibers, often mimicking wood or stucco.

• Balcony vs. Deck: A balcony is accessed only from the interior and lacks stairs to the ground, while a deck is open and typically has exterior stairs.

• Flatwork: Refers to horizontal surfaces like concrete sidewalks, patios, or driveways.

• Weep Holes: Small openings in masonry or window frames that allow trapped moisture to escape, preventing structural damage.

How to determine if a roof has impact resistant (Class 4) shingles

Can you tell if the roof has “impact resistant class 4 shingles”? Our homeowners insurance wants to know..

This is a question that we get almost daily as home inspectors and it’s a frustrating question because there is no way to visually determine if a shingle is impact resistant/class 4 rated. The only way to determine a shingles impact rating is by the manufacturer's spec sheet. Some shingles do have labeling on the back side of the shingle, but of course we can’t see that without ripping up a shingle.

Tip: If a roof is newer or if you have the contractor's information who installed the shingles, then we recommend contacting the contractor to see if product specifications are still available for that job. Sometimes there are extra shingles lying around the property, but that is rare and not reliable. Most often the answer is just not available and certainly something that the inspector cannot determine through the normal scope of an inspection.

Other non asphalt shingle roofing materials such as concrete tile or metal roofs are inherently impact resistant and don’t need a rating to determine impact resistance.

Next time you are advising your clients on a homeowners insurance application or looking for this info yourself, keep this information in mind and see if you can track down documentation from when the roof was installed.

How Much Does A Standard Garage Door Tuneup Cost And What Does It Include?

A garage door and opener servicing generally costs between $120-$150, but many companies will run door service specials periodically for less than $100.  

Routine garage door and opener service typically includes a comprehensive inspection of panels, hinges, bearing, cables, drums, track and opener for any irregularities. This also typically includes re-tensioning the springs for proper balance as well as making any adjustments to the door to make things run as smoothly as possible. A garage door technician should also check the opener limits and sensitivity to ensure safe operation.

How often should a garage door be maintained and why is routine maintenance important?

Garage door professional, Louis Wilson, of Ascent Garage Doors recommends that garage doors should be serviced annually or at least every other year in order to maintain proper spring balance and make sure there isn’t any progressive failure of components that could cause larger problems. 

Many people don’t realize it, but a garage door is the largest moving part of a home and can present safety issues if not properly serviced. Regular service greatly reduces the risk of large problems with your door coming off track, getting stuck, or even panels falling, which is a huge safety hazard.