Sump Pump vs. Sewage Ejector Pump: What’s the Difference?

When it comes to keeping your basement dry and your plumbing flowing smoothly, two systems often come into play: sump pumps and sewage ejector pumps. While they may sound similar, they serve very different purposes. Here's a breakdown to help you understand the difference and why it matters.

What Is a Sump Pump?

A sump pump is designed to remove groundwater that collects in a sump pit, usually located in the lowest part of a basement or crawlspace. This pump activates automatically when water levels rise and sends the water away from the home, often through a discharge pipe that leads outside.

Purpose:

Prevent basement flooding

Protect foundation from water damage

Manage high water tables or heavy rains

Common in Homes With:

Basements below the water table

Poor exterior drainage

History of water intrusion

What Is a Sewage Ejector Pump?

A sewage ejector pump is used to pump out wastewater from bathrooms, laundry rooms, or other plumbing fixtures located below the main sewer or septic line. Since gravity alone can’t move waste upward, an ejector pump is installed to push it up into the main sewer system.

Purpose:

Move solid and liquid waste from basement bathrooms or laundry

Prevent sewage backups

Comply with plumbing code in finished basements

Includes a Sealed Pit: Unlike a sump pit, a sewage ejector basin must be sealed to contain odors and gases, and is connected to a vent stack.

If you’re finishing your basement or purchasing a home with plumbing below grade, make sure your system is correctly installed and maintained.

Top 10 Inspection Topics Every Colorado Agent Should Understand

We are always impressed when an agent is able to intelligently communicate inspection findings and knowledge to their client during the inspection process. Having a working knowledge of common inspection issues can help you set expectations, avoid surprises, and win major credibility with clients.

Here are the top 10 home inspection topics every residential agent in Colorado should be familiar with:

🏠 Top 10 Inspection Topics in Colorado

1. Aluminum Wiring
   Common in homes built mid-60s to mid-70s. Is a fire hazard if not properly repaired and is flagged for detailed evaluation and repair.

2. Federal Pacific & Zinsco Panels
   These outdated electrical panels are known to fail under load and are always called out for replacement.

3. High Radon Levels
   Radon is common in Colorado due to our geology. Anything ≥ 4.0 pCi/L is recommended for mitigation.

4. Polybutylene & Galvanized Pipes
   These older plumbing materials are prone to failure and often lead to insurance or resale concerns.

5. Aging HVAC Systems
   Furnaces over 25 years and A/Cs over 15 years are at or near end-of-life. 

6. Asbestos-Containing Materials
   Common in older homes (especially popcorn ceilings, duct wrap and flooring). Asbestos can’t be confirmed visually and testing is required for confirmation.

7. Roof Age & Condition
   Understanding roof hail damage and claims is key in our climate. Knowing what to do with an inspector's findings is key.  Insurance companies often require documentation or inspection.

8. Grading & Drainage Issues
   Poor grading can lead to foundation moisture issues, especially with Benonite clay soils in Colorado.

9. Sewer Line Concerns
   Root intrusion, bellies, and breaks are common. Sewer scopes are highly recommended—even on newer homes.

10. Structural Movement
    Colorado’s expansive Bentonite clay soils can cause foundation shifting or settlement cracks. Minor cracks = common. Major displacement = concern.

How to Know if You Can Add Air Conditioning to a Heat-Only Home

This is one of the most common questions we get from buyers touring homes without air conditioning: Can I add A/C?

The short answer is yes—you can add A/C to almost any home. The longer answer? It depends on the home’s existing heating system, the budget, and how much work you're prepared to take on. Here’s a quick breakdown of what to consider when evaluating this with your clients.

Key Factors to Consider:

1. Forced Air Furnace = Easiest Path
   If the home already has a forced air furnace, that’s great news. The ductwork is already in place, so installing a central A/C system is typically straightforward and cost-effective.
   

2. Boiler System = Bigger Lift
   Homes heated by a boiler (radiators, baseboards, etc.) do not have ductwork, so adding central A/C will require installing a separate duct system. An increasingly popular alternative? Ductless mini-split systems, which are easier to retrofit and provide room-by-room control.
   

3. Evaporative Cooler Present?
   It’s a common misconception that an existing swamp cooler limits your A/C options. In reality, evaporative coolers and A/C systems operate independently. A home can technically have both—but most homeowners opt to remove the evaporative cooler once A/C is installed.
   

BOTTOM LINE:
Almost every home can be upgraded with air conditioning, but the cost and complexity vary greatly depending on the existing heating setup. Knowing what system is in place—and what alternatives are available—can help set the right expectations for your buyers and open the door for helpful vendor referrals.

Pro tip: If installing A/C, consider heat pump options that provide both heating and cooling. Split system heat pumps are available that look and operate just like a traditional A/C, but with the added benefit of providing efficient heating to supplement a furnace. 

Colorado Reg 8: What You Need to Know About Asbestos Compliance

Colorado’s Regulation 8 requires asbestos inspection and compliance whenever renovation or demolition disturbs a certain amount of material, regardless of the home’s age—since even new buildings can contain asbestos.

Key Takeaways:

Age Doesn’t Exempt You

Reg 8 triggers inspection requirements based on the amount of material disturbed.

Under Colorado Reg 8, any renovation or demolition that disturbs asbestos-containing materials (ACM) must be inspected if the following thresholds are exceeded in a single-family dwelling:

• 50 linear feet of pipe insulation

• 32 square feet of other surface materials (e.g. drywall, ceiling texture)

• Or the volume equivalent to a 55‑gallon drum of material

Know the Thresholds

Under Colorado Reg 8, any renovation or demolition that disturbs asbestos-containing materials (ACM) must be inspected if the following thresholds are exceeded in a single-family dwelling:

• 50 linear feet of pipe insulation

• 32 square feet of other surface materials (e.g. drywall, ceiling texture)

• Or the volume equivalent to a 55‑gallon drum of material

Permitting and Timing

If asbestos is found—or assumed—the contractor must notify CDPHE and wait 10 working days before removing it. Skipping this step can result in permit delays and fines.

Best Practice

When advising clients on renovations or inspections, remind them to ask about Reg 8 testing early with their contractor, and verify it’s completed if their scope triggers the thresholds.

If you plan any remodel or demolition—even in newer homes—make sure asbestos compliance under Reg 8 is on your radar. Our intention is to educate, not alarm. We want to ensure that our clients are properly informed so that future costly surprises are avoided.

How Long Does A Deck Typically Last And How Often Should A Wood Deck Be Sealed?

The lifespan of a wood deck can vary depending on a number of factors, including the type of wood used, the climate in the area, the level of maintenance it receives, and the amount of foot traffic and exposure to the elements it experiences.

In general, a well-built and well-maintained wood deck can last anywhere from 10 to 30 years or more.

To help extend the life of a wood deck, it's important to regularly clean it and inspect it for any signs of damage or wear, such as loose boards or rotting wood. Additionally, applying a high-quality sealant or stain to the deck can help protect it from moisture, UV rays, and other environmental factors that can contribute to deterioration.

The frequency with which a wood deck should be sealed can depend on a number of factors, including the type of sealant used, the climate in the area, and the amount of use and exposure to the elements the deck experiences.

As a general rule, however, most experts recommend that homeowners plan to seal their wood decks every 1 to 3 years.

Some signs that it may be time to reseal the deck include faded or discolored wood, rough or splintered surfaces, or water that no longer beads up on the surface of the wood.